La Vendimia

I haven't a clue on where to start on my last two months, the duration of my vendimia, or harvest, here in Chile. It seems like yesterday I was crossing the Andes into Chile, with a sense of wonder and full of excitment. I was here to do something I love, make wine. I had no idea what to expect, and was going into this foreign land relatively blind. Armed only with the name of the winery, and the location of where to get off the bus, my fellow Gringa, Molly, and I ventured into uncharted territory.

The winery is in the Maule Valley, in between two cities, or rather a city, Talca, and a town, San Clemente. We were to live at the vineyard, in a casita, with two girls from Chile, and next door to a casa, with 12 boys from Chile, ranging from 18-28 years old.

The casita


Vineyards & Andes off the porch


And on our first night, we were greeted with the monthly Asado, pleasantly located in between the two houses



A stunning view, choripans (chorizo and bread), and some cerdo (pork), it was a fun, delicious introduction to this valley and to my time here.

As it turns out, the next two months would prove to be my most difficult in my series of journeys around this world thus far. I learned a lot, and saw a completely new side of winemaking, one that has far more logisitics, additions, and movements than I ever knew. I learned to be pushed to my limits-in sleep, in language, in culture, and when it comes down to it, to the wine being produced and in the methods of production. The winery is expanding at a rapid pace and the company is still trying to figure out how to process the thousands upon thousands of kilograms of grapes six nights a week.



Six nights of the week that we were working-a 24 hour crew-working their hearts out for wine that sells from $3.00-$10.00 a bottle.



I was on a 12 hour night shift for a month, and the day off flipping back and forth between day and night to see something of the outside world.



Speaking only Spanish, processing grapes both familiar (merlot, top) and new (tintorera, bottom),






and always hoping to stay warm enough to taste through the wines at a 4 am round in 40 degree weather.



I write this now, at the end of my harvest, with a new appreciation of what I love and know back home in Sonoma County, a working knowledge of the Spanish language, and more then ever, my heart is still with wine-and appreciating all that it takes makes that delicious cup in your hand.

Empanadas

This is Maria- a wonderful, Argentinian woman who came to our hostel to teach a class on how to make empanadas. In South America, or at least in the three countries I have been to, empanadas are everywhere. Vendors on the street, small markets, restaurants, and grocery stores alike are all selling yummy pockets of dough, filled with any ingredients you like. A quick, delightful bite to eat, especially on this traveler's shoestring budget.

Maria gave us the recipe for to make 48 empanadas-for it seems that also in South America, or the three countires I have been to, portions are beyond generous. Walking around the room, she shared the spices, shown in tne white bowls. Cumin, chili, oregano, paprika round out the list. Added to some ground beef, and onion, a touch of salt-voilá-a filling.




For those who don't have premade empanada shells at their grocery, like they do here, you must make your own dough. Since I don't have good luck with making anything with dough, it was a helpful "flour+water" hint. Even the advice of using a wine bottle to flatten [not pictured here], was perfect.




We used the pre made empanada rounds to stuff and fold to our fancy, listening to Maria as she explained hoe the corners need to be tucked in to keep all the goodness inside.





With the empandadas all folded and placed in the oven, the group of travelers shared stories of near and far, where you came from, and where you're going next. It is the time I cherish the most in hostels, the community of the hopeless wanderers all looking for treasures and experience in this world.

When our they came out of the oven, Maria dutifully walked around, doling out every person's special one they made-carefully marked your own way.


And in the end, we cheers, for a cooking class in Mendoza is not complete without a glass of malbec in your hand.

Location:Mendoza, Argentina

Anatomy of the South American Overnight Bus Meal

South American buses have a reputation-they are supposed better the business class on an airplane. Not that I have flown business class, but I had some high expectations. After many a sleepless night on overnight buses in Southeast Asia, I was a little concerned. With only a couple weeks of "touring" travel before I arrive in Chile to work, I'm trying to get optimal sleep to maximize general awareness. The employee where I booked the ticket promised it would be nice, worth the extra $X amount to get a nicer bus, and they would have a meal or two.

I can't speak to comparing comfort but I did sleep a surprising amount. And thankful for it. And as for the meals? Two! Breakfast was full of packages cookie treats and a muffin. But dinner. Now we're talking. This meal was full of surprises and unknowns, so let's dissect and discover the anatomy of an overnight bus meal.



First, the unknown roll-top middle. Hard boiled eggs wrapped in a sweet pastry. I had to take a bite to find out what it was and only one bite to realize-ahhh yuck. No gracias. No idea if its for dessert or what but, no. Just no on this one. Moving on hoping for more!

On the top left, a cold potato salad with cooked carrots and peas. For those who know my food choices-you know I'll eat anything. But for whatever reason I do not like cooked carrots. Again, I choked it down and moved on.

To the bottom right carrot, pineapple, cherry salad. Interesting combination, but I'll often take anything that remotely resembles fruits and veggies at this point.

Next to the warm meal, bottom left. Chicken with what looked like ham 'bits' on potatoes. Heavy on the potatoes at this point, but calories are calories and this wasn't half bad, the sauce was actually nice and the chicken wasn't dry. So, minus one piece of questionable chicken which I cut off and set aside, all good!

On to my mini sando, top right-taking the roll, processed cheese and ham and the mayo and going for it. Probably a highlight!

The true highlight? Vino incluyo. Yes please. Two glasses outta that styrofoam cup on the top right of Argentina's famed Malbec will be justtttt fine, thank you! I am en route to Mendoza after all...



And for dessert, some orange like flan like creation! On the right in the container. Not too bad, and also had my weeks worth of sugar, double score!

Most impressive part is that all of this was served, eaten and picked up in about 15 minutes. Except the wine, I kept my wine but the girl moved quick!





So I got a good nights sleep, enough decent food-while saving to splurge on lunch in Mendoza. Lomo al Malbec con ensalada mixta.

Delicious steak, perfect weather to eat outside and I am one happy gal to be off that bus, at the foot of the Andes & ready to taste some wine.

Location:Somewhere in between Buenos Aires and Mendoza, Argentina

Bodegas Carrau

My decision to come to Uruguay was partially made on my desire to learn more about Uruguayan wines. Largely left out of any of my formal studies for sommelier course, or informal studies for my general wine knowledge, I could not think of any better way to learn then to engulf myself with the wine, the people, in the place! If I only could do this for every wine region I want to learn about i.e. everywhere in the world, but alas, I don't have the funds. Perhaps some day I will find myself perusing in Bordeaux, then off to Alsace, into the Rhine, and then way on down to Margaret River, Central Otago and beyond. Until then, I am going to learn as much about South American wines as I can.




My third and final winery in Uruguay was a wonderful visit to Bodegas Carrau, on the outskirts of Montevideo. Margarita Carrau, of the Ninth Generation of Bodegas Carrau, led me through the wines and through the winery


The Carrau family started winemaking in 1752 in Cataluña, España. The winemaking tradition continued for a few generations in Spain, and as relatives began to move to Uruguay, the wine went with them. It was in 1929 that Juan Carrau Sust moved to Montevideo with a degree in enology from Villa Franca del Penades, and a wife and five children in tow. One of those children, Margarita's father, Juan Francisco Carrau Pujol, was who officially purchased his own vineyards and winery in Uruguay-the Bodegas Carrau we see today.

Winemaking here at the Bodega Colón, in Montevideo, and at the Bodega Cerro Chapeu in Rivera on the Uruguay/Brazil border, is innovative fine wine-expressing the unique terrior of both areas, and together producing wines under the Bodegas Carrau name.



A model of the Bodega Cerro Chapeu all done my gravity flow.

A tour of the winery demonstrated the care they give to the wines-from pristine stainless tanks


To unique concrete tanks



A stunning cellar



And a seperate room for several pupitre for their vinos espumoso





Bodegas Carrau is very dedicated to winemaking, and after 260 years of tradition, who wouldn't be! Francisco Carrau, Margarita's brother, has tried to enhance that tradition with his degree in Chemistry and continuing study of the Microbiology of Wine Aromas. In this lab,



They dedicate much time and energy to the learning about the first tannat clones in Uruguay and preserving their history. They also are isolating the native yeasts for fermentation, and lead studies with consumers on tasting the wine.

And speaking of tasting the wines! We started with a wonderful 2012 Sauvignon Blanc




Aged sur lees for 6 months, this was a wonderful wine. On the nose it had hints of grass and guava. A nice acidity gave it a lasting acidity, that was herbaceous with a hint a jalepeño.

Another white, the 2011 Chardonnay Reserva



Was light and crisp-a nice blend of months aging on 40% of the blend.

Their 2012 Tannat Rosè "Saignée"



Was a beautiful rose, full of roses and lavender. It is fermented fully dry, and has a sharp acidity, perfect for the typical Uruguayan BBQ being prepared outside




A 2011 Pinot Noir de Reservas made me homesick for Pinots from home




And a 2010 Tannat de Reservas, was a smooth tannat-again screaming for the wonderful steaks being cooked only feet from my seat.



A special treat was the 2007 Amat Tannat, listed in Neil Beckett's 1001 Wines You Must Taste Before You Die.



We let it open up for the time of our tour and we came back to a stunning wine. It is fermented in open top tanks, then aged for 20-24 months in 50% new oak. It was black raspberries, partnered with oranges that had been simmered with nutmeg and cloves. This wine is made only in the finest vintages and it was really, a wine to try before you die.

Our final note was an actual 'treat', the Vivent Licor de Tannat



A late harvest fortified tannat, it was barrel aged with lees for 18 months and only 10 barrels are made. This wine was dark chocolate raspberry on the nose, with candied orange peels coming through on the finish. A dessert wine to skip dessert to for.

Thank you so much to Maragarita, and the staff at Bodegas Carrau for a delightful visit.

Location:Montevideo, Uruguay

Bodegas Castillo Viejo

My decision to come to Uruguay was partially made on my desire to learn more about Uruguayan wines. Largely left out of any of my formal studies for sommelier course, or informal studies for my general wine knowledge, I could not think of any better way to learn then to engulf myself with the wine, the people, in the place! If I only could do this for every wine region I want to learn about i.e. everywhere in the world, but alas, I don't have the funds. Perhaps some day I will find myself perusing in Bordeaux, then off to Alsace, into the Rhine, and then way on down to Margaret River, Central Otago and beyond. Until then, I am going to learn as much about South American wines as I can.


I continued this journey to Bodegas Castillo Viejo, a short drive from Pisano. I was greeted by Francisco and Pablo, export manager and winemaker respectively. Castillo Viejo is another family winery in the area, founded in 1927. While the vineyards are located in San José, about a hour and a half drive away, special care is given to make sure grapes come in well taken care of, including night harvests into small bins for transportation.

Quick upon arrival Pablo was gracious to sample some fermenting wines to try. As of February 15th, only white grapes were in tanks. They are experimenting with a Gewurtztraminer for sparkling




And a yummy Chardonnay



To me, the more wines I taste in this stage, the better. It only happens but once a year, or twice if you swap hemispheres, and some fermenting wines are incredible. It is also a peek into the future-what you will see in bottle many months.

A quick juant through the winery led us to the cellar below-both where they age the reserve wines, and where the original wine tanks of the winery were built into the Earth.




It was in this cellar that we held our tasting. Francisco started us off with their Brut Natural, while Pablo explained to me their various labels and levels within the winery



The sparkling is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Sauvignon Blanc-which made for a bright, crisp wine with only the slightest hint of a tropical Sauvignon Blanc grape.

The second wine here at Castillo Viejo was a similar experience to the second wine I tasted at Pisano-a totally new experience with their 2012 CataMayor Tannat Rose Roble



Spending 3-4 months in oak, with the strong tannin of tannat but delicate as a rosè this wine was utterly different then any I had before.

We then went through a series of red wines, from their CataMayor Reserve label, including the 2010 Merlot




2010 Tannat and Cabernet Franc blend (70 percent tannat)



And the 2010 Tannat



Each of the three were fun expressions of what Castillo Viejo is trying to show-a diversity in wines, from their vineyards with respect to the environment and pleasure to the consumer.

Perhaps none of the wines we tasted we as evident of this philosophy, then of the next wine, the 2010 Vieja Parcela Cabernet Franc



The Vieja Parcela label includes only single variety grapes from the oldest parcels in the vineyard. When I said it had a note of graphite, Pablo chuckled as he confirmed, as the fermenting wine smells so strong of graphite, it is detectable several feet from the tank. The wine had hints of dark fruits and eucalyptus-a wonderful cabernet franc.

We concluded our formal tasting with the 2007 CataMayor Tannat, Single Barrel No 5


When the winemaker goes through the barrels destined for the Reserva de la Famila label (which I did try the 2009 Tannat), he selects a barrel or two of the best for single barrel bottling-the best of the best. These barrels are then aged for a year and a half in, then aged in bottles for another couple of years before release. It was the deepest color of the wines, nearly black, attributed to the 26 day maceration. However, the depth of this wine went beyond color. It had layers of fruit, balck raspberry and blackberry, and of spice, cinnamon and nutmeg that opened up as the wine swirled in my glass.

This glass was a wonderful conclusion to Castillo Viejo, and to my first day in Uruguay. Thanks to Francisco for the hospitality and gracias a Pablo por habló en ingles!

Location:Las Piedras, Uruguay

Harvest 2013

2013?! From California, people are just beginning to think of harvest 2013. Pruning is in full swing,




barrels being ordered, wine is being bottled, and every harvest intern wondering, where's next? Well, I just couldn't wait that long for another. After what was an incredible 2012 vintage at Littorai Wine in Sebastopol-full of stunning pinot noir sunsets




Pumpovers



Lab work



After work tastings



And biodynamic prep work,







I started to look South. Wayyyyy South. So this Spring 2013, I will be working for TerraNoble Winery in Talca, Chile. I am beyond excited to get my hands dirty again. And, to be blogging again. I don't know what it is able travel and writing but it is inspriring. And Iove it.

Best of all, I have already made my journey to South America! This adventure is only just beginning.

First stop, Montevideo. Capital of Uruguay and kickoff to my Harvest 2013.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Soriano,Montevideo,Uruguay