Au Revoir

Au Revoir, means goodbye in French and that is what I'm doing, saying goodbye to France. It seems like just yesterday that I was on a plane over here, not knowing what to expect, and not knowing just how I was going to fill two months of my life here. But, I think one could spend a lifetime easily is this quaint little nook of Southwest France. I went today on a final bike ride to Castelnaud-crisp air, turning trees, a babbling brook, and a giant castle in the distance-you can't just find this anywhere. I was reminded of all the special moments that I have had here in this valley. From cooking to cleaning, discovery of new foods to a new appreciation of the old, to making countless new friends and unbelievable memories, it has truly been an amazing experience. Below, some of my most memorable moments here in the valley, some featured on the blog and some not but all important to my experience and my time here

My home, the B&B

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Albert & I at the first night market I went to of the year in Saint Cyprien

Wildflowers

Salade de Perigord-Duck Confit, terrine, gizzards-the best!

wine!

Learning about Foie Gras

Cenac Rugby Bodega

Foie Gras plate at Cabanoix

Fresh bread at a night market in Audrix

Daglan Faire

The Dordogne Valley

Medieval Kitchens

Dinner with a view

Castelnaud and kayaking :)

Wine tasting in Montbazillac

22nd birthday

The ruins of Chateau de Commarque

Making your meal at night market in Bouzic

Bouzic Firework Show

Lessons from Daniele

Learning more from her

Making pommes sarladaise and magret in Daniele's kitchen

Sarlat Market

So many vendors!

DUCK lasagna=YUMMY

St John Bread & Wine in London

Borough Market in London

Night at the Proms fireworks in London

Castelnaud Tete du Veau lunch

Tete du Veau with a large brass band

Walnut Mill

In the Kitchen, eating the lamb meal I made

What you see here is only a small explanation on my life for the past two months. Thank you Caitlin & Albert for the best time in the Dordogne. Now I'm off to Italy to start a new adventure with one of my best friends :)

dîner et un film

Last night, Caitlin and I ventured into Sarlat for un dîner et un film, a dinner and a movie. There was a sneak peak preview of the most critically acclaimed Des hommes et des dieux, "Of Gods and Men". This movie premiered at Cannes and won the Grand Prix award, which is the second most prestigious award of the festival. But more about the movie in a bit, let me tell you about dinner.

After wandering and eying menus for what my stomach felt like ages, we finally decided to settle into Le Bistrot, quaintly situated in front of the large Cathedral.

Part of the Cathedral dates back to the 9th century, but it wasn't until the 1600s till it was completed and you get to see what is in the picture in front of you. It is still used quite frequently for weddings and funerals in the area, sometimes causing a major traffic jam of people as you try to sneak your way by. Luckily for us, no such events were going on, and we were treated to some soft organ music echoing out from the hall.

We were promptly sat outside and told the waiter we had a movie to make. Often, it is really difficult, if not just short of impossible to have a quick meal here. Which, most of the time is much appreciated, as we never feel rushed to finish so they can turn the table for the next guest. But here, they were happy to comply with our quick request and we submitted our orders. I ordered the Parmentier de Confit de Canard, then ran quickly down to the movie theater to buy our tickets, since we were afraid it might be a sold out show. When I returned I was greeted by this:

A lot like a shepards pie, but much, much better. The duck confit was gently layered at the bottom of the pan, covered with potatoes, and a layer of cheese, that is so delicately browned as you see in the photo.  Served with a small side salad, and paired nicely with a glass of Malbec wine, it is another amazingly comforting, and overly delicious dish. You can find a recipe here but that does not call for the cheese layer on the top, which I think is a must! So I found a different recipe for those who want to try it out. I would suggest a combination of the two, just take a look and see what you like!

We finished our meal just minutes before the movie was supposed to open. Luckily, the theater was very close ( as I had learned when I ran to buy the tickets), and since we had pre-purchased, we zipped right in front of the massive line that had formed out front and found our seats.

It seemed very coincidental that we ate dinner in front of a Cathedral as the film is based on a true story of nine Trappist Monks that live in the monastery of Tibhirine, which is settled up in the Algerian mountains.All of the monks were French, but they had been living very peacefully with the Muslim villagers and the story follows their life while the Algerian Civil War starts to increase and evidently, they get caught up in the middle of it. The wikipedia article is very interesting and the French wikipedia article (translated!) is even better, but they both do tell you what happens. Though, as it is a true story, some of you may know what happens already.

Sadly for me, my French speaking skills get maxed out after I read a menu, and since I was seeing a French film in a French cinema, there was no English subtitles. But with some knowledge of what it was about beforehand, I was able to follow along and understand what was going on. But the beauty of this film, and why I think it won the award at Cannes, was the incredible cinematography-the still shots and the panoramic views. It was also very emotional without any words needing to be said. The monk's expressions, their actions, their prayers and hymns, were all so powerful and moving that words did not need to be spoken. 

 I wish I could tell to you all the release date for the movie in the United States, but I can't seem to find it anywhere I am looking online. But, remember the official movie poster I included above and go see it when it comes out. At best, rent it or find it on Netflix to see at home. It is a very compelling film, that is worth every penny to see.

Sarlat Market

Wednesdays and Saturdays are Market Days in Sarlat, the largest town in the immediate area. Much like the other markets we have been too, with produce stands, meat markets, fish stalls, foie gras producers, you name it! But it is much bigger and therefore much more crowded with people. Coming down the hill into town is stop and go traffic, and once you find your parking spot (if you ever do) you have to trek into town, to find the goods you are looking for. The clothing, kitchen goods and toys pleasantly line the Rue de la Republique while the food stands are stationed just an alleyway's walk below on the Rue Tourny, Place de Peyrou, Rue de la Liberte, and Place de la Liberte. What does this mean? That the entirety of the market is centered in some of the most interesting Medieval streets I think I have ever seen. The old town was mainly constructed in the 14th century and has kept much of its originality-down to the narrow winding streets through town and the similar use of the square for selling goods (though they aren't bringing in live animals anymore). Walking along, with the masses of international people, you can almost squint your eyes and imagine these little lanes as it was back in the day, with the lights replaced by candles, and the modern refrigeration booths simply removed.

Taken on a Wednesday Market

Romantic alleyways

Taken on last Saturday's Market

Place de la Liberte

Two of my most favorite local products, Walnuts & Strawberries

French butcher-men

After wandering through the maze of people and stands, we had luckily worked up a lovely appetite, just in time to meet some friends for lunch at Chez le Gaulois, a traditional French restaurant but nothing like you would normally run into in the Dordogne where menus are normally full of foie gras and duck items. This food is traditional Mountain food-full of cheese, potatoes and ham, and all delicious!

When I say they served ham, I mean, they served ham and lots of it! Walking in, this front door, one is greeted by 20 legs of ham hanging from the ceiling and more upstairs where the waiters would go up and retrieve more ham for the ham slicer. Yup, the ham slicer. During the entirety of the lunch service (we were there for almost two hours), there was one man standing in the back slicing ham. A plate would pass through the window from the tiny kitchen with the melted cheese or the vegetables and he would load the order up with the appropriate amount of ham.

Ham Slicer in the back

Our menus were written on individual chalkboards and was fairly short, with about 10 total items on the menu-all including ham and all including cheese.

In trying to watch my acid-intake, I opted for the less intimidating option a Cassolette de Legumes, basically just a casserole of yummy vegetables with a cheese melted on top with a side of ham and a salad.

Other people on the table ordered the L'Assiette de Montagnards, a lovely melted cheese served with ham and roasted potatoes

Complete with special wooden spoon for serving the cheese

And the Tartiflette, a luxurious combination of cheese, onions, bacon, and potatoes.

The Tartiflette was a real treat and would be perfect on a cold winters evening. Though it was already fairly warm outside, a bite of this warmed you straight to the soul. I found a fairly good recipe to use for the next cool day!

To cool off after our warm, yet utterly delicious meals, we ordered some ice creams, made by a local regional producer. Our friend got his favorite, 1,2, 3, boules-a house specialty of three kinds of chocolate-dark, milk, and white. The white chocolate was surprisingly good for someone who doesn't normally like white chocolate. He also added a forth boule of licorice, which I was most definitely hesitant to try since black licorice is something I reach for less then white chocolate. But it was actually refreshing and good, I may have to re-think my licorice dislike...

1,2,3 boules + 1 more!

I opted for a single boule de noix, or walnut ice cream. Since being here, I have taken a fancy to anything walnut-especially walnut breads and desserts. This ice cream did not disappoint.

A perfect way to unwind after a busy morning of fighting the crowds and a large meal.