Wednesday, July 13, 2011

A Patriotic Fourth

Fourth of July-a day for family, BBQ, fireworks, and a beer or two. When in the middle of Vietnam, you have to get a little creative in your celebration, but with a few other Americans, some willing-to-celebrate Brits, and a gorgeous beach to spend the day, its just like at home.

We were in Hoi An, a quaint beachside place most famous for it's tailor shops, friendly locals,



Beautiful temples,


And it's location at the end of the Thu Bon River, leading right into the South China Sea.





We started the day by renting bikes, to casually meander the UNESCO protected streets. Each corner offered charm and character








We went to the 'locals' beach, An Bang, a mere 2.5 km bike ride outside of town, that was nearly empty when we arrived.





After settling in, we started to look for the proper Fourth of July grub. We grabbed a watermelon from the market in town before we left, as no 4th is complete without some crisp watermelon to sink your teeth into



When we needed more food, street carts came right along the beach, complete with butane burners to cook you their foods.


This cart had a hotdog like skewer, which seemed appropriate for the 4th. It had its Vietnam twist though- slathered with oyster and chili sauce, and served with fish balls.


The cart also dished up a corn salad, but again, with Vietnam flare with chili a sauce and dried shrimp.


After a satisfying meal and swim, we sunk in to watch our firework show-the sunset.



.






As the sun had been setting the locals came out to play and the beach filled with people-bringing their blankets and setting up picnics.



Though they didn't realize they really made the Fourth even more special for the few of us celebrating on the beach




Saturday, July 9, 2011

How long to stay in Halong Bay?

The answer to that question for us was not enough. After the hustle bustle of car horns and scooters, it was incredibly nice to get into the calm, stunning waters in Halong Bay







We took a two day three night cruise in the bay, spending time doing fantastic water activities such as jumping off boats....






Kayaking....









And wake boarding...










It was a life I could certainly get used too. Night one we slept on the 'junk', the boats used in Halong Bay



And we ate two delicious meals for lunch and dinner. Lunch being a selection of chicken, tofu, salads and noodles



While dinner included some clams, fried rice, salad....



Plus a bowl of some unknown gelatinous soup


And a whole fish, which I demonstrated to the table that eating the cheek was the best part, yum!



Night two we slept on Castaway Island, deep in the heart of Halong Bay



In fantastic bamboo huts



And ate a Vietnamese BBQ, buffet style



Late in the night there was a night swim, and as light capturing algae glowed as you moved through the water, I couldn't help but count my lucky stars for this adventure that I have been having. When you spend the two days doing what I had done in Vietnam, you think of how things have changed in the world and in your life. Makes you smile, thank the people that got you where you are, and of those who will bring you there in the future.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Good Morning, Vietnam

It's amazing that after an overnight trip to the Laos border, on a almost seamless bus ride, the second you cross in the Vietnam border, all hell can break loose.

Ok, not quiet fair to Vietnam. Hell broke loose the second we stepped off the bus still in Laos to cross the border, in what should have been a tops half hour operation. After dealing with Laos authorities by candlelight in a power outage, a walk up a hill to the Vietnam border in the pouring rain, and the sight of a very distressed border building, things weren't looking up. By the time we got back on the bus three hours after we got off, things really weren't looking up. Then in another three hours when I nearly left my passport behind in the most disgusting roadside lunch stop, I almost had my wits end with Vietnam before I really even got to the country. To top it off, our once calm driver to the Laos border immediately switched into a honking maniac to drive us the what should have been 9 but turned into 12 hour drive the rest of the way to Hanoi, only to be massively scammed by the taxi driver. Did I mention most of this was done in the pouring rain?

So we arrived in Hanoi a little worn out, and expected the worst. However, we managed to be pleasantly surprised, and did enjoy our time there. We spent the day wandering around, soaking in the sights that Hanoi has to offer. There were the quintessential temples-Ngoc Son Temple




A lake-Hoan Kiem Lake






And even a statue in the middle of the lake, dedicated to the giant turtles that once lived there-Thap Run Statue



And then the cultural sights were nearly done. What to watch for in Hanoi is not the charming temples and sights of the old world, as we did in Bangkok or Luang Prabang, but the people...










the random odd corners....






And the traffic...





The place is seriously full of motorbikes, more than ANYWHERE yet. Just stepping outside the hostel was a giant game of chicken, and perfecting the art of the consistent slow walk across, no matter how fast the cars are coming, was the only key to survival.

We luckily had a great recommendation for a restaurant very close to our hostel, and it was so delicious, we made it twice.



New Day was a bustling place, and filled the four narrow floors and back rooms to capacity during lunch and dinner. On good review we opted to get the fixed menu, to fill out empty stomachs. Not long after ordering and receiving my Hanoi Brand beer, we started to receive foods of epic proportions



First there was chicken soup



Then Hanoi style (deep fried) spring rolls,



And finally a rich carmel braised pork, still with the melt in your mouth pork fat prices attached



It was a meal to be remembered



Because there was only two of us, we were limited to only one fixed menu option. So we dragged along some friends for lunch one day to get the grand menu for four


It included-spring rolls, chicken corn soup, sautéed morning glory with garlic, a cucumber and tomato salad, pork patties of some sort, black pepper beef, the obligatory rice bucket, duck a la orange (hello French influence)



And an impressive fruit latter at the end, just in case we weren't stuffed enough as it was. All for a fabulous price of $6 per person, which after nearly a month of spending $1-$3 a meal, seems like an absolute fortune. But it was incredibly delicious, and since the Vietnamese people were licking their plates as much as we were, I feel that saying it was one of the best around is not too far off.


So with the interesting people watching, the delicious food, and even the incredible game of checkers between humans and motorbikes, Hanoi was an interesting start to the race around trip of Vietnam.