La Vendimia

I haven't a clue on where to start on my last two months, the duration of my vendimia, or harvest, here in Chile. It seems like yesterday I was crossing the Andes into Chile, with a sense of wonder and full of excitment. I was here to do something I love, make wine. I had no idea what to expect, and was going into this foreign land relatively blind. Armed only with the name of the winery, and the location of where to get off the bus, my fellow Gringa, Molly, and I ventured into uncharted territory.

The winery is in the Maule Valley, in between two cities, or rather a city, Talca, and a town, San Clemente. We were to live at the vineyard, in a casita, with two girls from Chile, and next door to a casa, with 12 boys from Chile, ranging from 18-28 years old.

The casita


Vineyards & Andes off the porch


And on our first night, we were greeted with the monthly Asado, pleasantly located in between the two houses



A stunning view, choripans (chorizo and bread), and some cerdo (pork), it was a fun, delicious introduction to this valley and to my time here.

As it turns out, the next two months would prove to be my most difficult in my series of journeys around this world thus far. I learned a lot, and saw a completely new side of winemaking, one that has far more logisitics, additions, and movements than I ever knew. I learned to be pushed to my limits-in sleep, in language, in culture, and when it comes down to it, to the wine being produced and in the methods of production. The winery is expanding at a rapid pace and the company is still trying to figure out how to process the thousands upon thousands of kilograms of grapes six nights a week.



Six nights of the week that we were working-a 24 hour crew-working their hearts out for wine that sells from $3.00-$10.00 a bottle.



I was on a 12 hour night shift for a month, and the day off flipping back and forth between day and night to see something of the outside world.



Speaking only Spanish, processing grapes both familiar (merlot, top) and new (tintorera, bottom),






and always hoping to stay warm enough to taste through the wines at a 4 am round in 40 degree weather.



I write this now, at the end of my harvest, with a new appreciation of what I love and know back home in Sonoma County, a working knowledge of the Spanish language, and more then ever, my heart is still with wine-and appreciating all that it takes makes that delicious cup in your hand.

Bodegas Carrau

My decision to come to Uruguay was partially made on my desire to learn more about Uruguayan wines. Largely left out of any of my formal studies for sommelier course, or informal studies for my general wine knowledge, I could not think of any better way to learn then to engulf myself with the wine, the people, in the place! If I only could do this for every wine region I want to learn about i.e. everywhere in the world, but alas, I don't have the funds. Perhaps some day I will find myself perusing in Bordeaux, then off to Alsace, into the Rhine, and then way on down to Margaret River, Central Otago and beyond. Until then, I am going to learn as much about South American wines as I can.




My third and final winery in Uruguay was a wonderful visit to Bodegas Carrau, on the outskirts of Montevideo. Margarita Carrau, of the Ninth Generation of Bodegas Carrau, led me through the wines and through the winery


The Carrau family started winemaking in 1752 in Cataluña, España. The winemaking tradition continued for a few generations in Spain, and as relatives began to move to Uruguay, the wine went with them. It was in 1929 that Juan Carrau Sust moved to Montevideo with a degree in enology from Villa Franca del Penades, and a wife and five children in tow. One of those children, Margarita's father, Juan Francisco Carrau Pujol, was who officially purchased his own vineyards and winery in Uruguay-the Bodegas Carrau we see today.

Winemaking here at the Bodega Colón, in Montevideo, and at the Bodega Cerro Chapeu in Rivera on the Uruguay/Brazil border, is innovative fine wine-expressing the unique terrior of both areas, and together producing wines under the Bodegas Carrau name.



A model of the Bodega Cerro Chapeu all done my gravity flow.

A tour of the winery demonstrated the care they give to the wines-from pristine stainless tanks


To unique concrete tanks



A stunning cellar



And a seperate room for several pupitre for their vinos espumoso





Bodegas Carrau is very dedicated to winemaking, and after 260 years of tradition, who wouldn't be! Francisco Carrau, Margarita's brother, has tried to enhance that tradition with his degree in Chemistry and continuing study of the Microbiology of Wine Aromas. In this lab,



They dedicate much time and energy to the learning about the first tannat clones in Uruguay and preserving their history. They also are isolating the native yeasts for fermentation, and lead studies with consumers on tasting the wine.

And speaking of tasting the wines! We started with a wonderful 2012 Sauvignon Blanc




Aged sur lees for 6 months, this was a wonderful wine. On the nose it had hints of grass and guava. A nice acidity gave it a lasting acidity, that was herbaceous with a hint a jalepeño.

Another white, the 2011 Chardonnay Reserva



Was light and crisp-a nice blend of months aging on 40% of the blend.

Their 2012 Tannat Rosè "Saignée"



Was a beautiful rose, full of roses and lavender. It is fermented fully dry, and has a sharp acidity, perfect for the typical Uruguayan BBQ being prepared outside




A 2011 Pinot Noir de Reservas made me homesick for Pinots from home




And a 2010 Tannat de Reservas, was a smooth tannat-again screaming for the wonderful steaks being cooked only feet from my seat.



A special treat was the 2007 Amat Tannat, listed in Neil Beckett's 1001 Wines You Must Taste Before You Die.



We let it open up for the time of our tour and we came back to a stunning wine. It is fermented in open top tanks, then aged for 20-24 months in 50% new oak. It was black raspberries, partnered with oranges that had been simmered with nutmeg and cloves. This wine is made only in the finest vintages and it was really, a wine to try before you die.

Our final note was an actual 'treat', the Vivent Licor de Tannat



A late harvest fortified tannat, it was barrel aged with lees for 18 months and only 10 barrels are made. This wine was dark chocolate raspberry on the nose, with candied orange peels coming through on the finish. A dessert wine to skip dessert to for.

Thank you so much to Maragarita, and the staff at Bodegas Carrau for a delightful visit.

Location:Montevideo, Uruguay