Firenze

I think I need about two blogs to document the food that Lexi and I ate in Florence. Though very touristy, even still in October, we were able to find some amazing food just off the beaten paths. If you read my last post, you will know that I was writing as I was leaving Rome on a train with no food and a large appetite. So the second we got to Florence, we hit the ground running. We found a delightful rustic cafe called Pallottino. Established in 1911 it has old heavy wooden tables and a glorious smell wafting rom the kitchen. Plus a great deal for the menu of the day! We ordered a first course of pasta, Pennette all creama de spinaci, and vegetable soup, Passato a verdure con pane dorato then both got the chicken, Pollo in forno con patate. Delicious!

After we felt re-charged and ready to tackle the city, especially to find lodging for the night. We are couchsurfing but my phone did not want to have service ANYWHERE in the city, making communication with our host difficult. No sooner as we got the receipt for the hotel for the night as it was getting dark did my phone ring, with our host on the line. We decided to just stay in the hotel to have one night in the downtown area to walk around, then move up to his hillside place the next day. At this point, I was again hungry, so we decided to head out for dinner. On a trip to Italy with my Dad two years ago, we stopped in Florence for a few nights and had some great food. Determined to find some of those places again, I took Lexi on a wild goose chase to find a really good restaurant near the Duomo. After some walking in circles, we found the place, only to find a two hour wait. So we put in our names and went out searching for a nearby apertivo, or wine with free appetizer buffet! The best thing.

Finger sandwiches and wine!

The selection, we both had a great glass, but didn't write down what we ordered...

The lovely little place, Coronas Cafe

The packed Caffe!

We set off back to the restaurant, Caffe Coquinarius. Part of the Slow Food world, they have some great food-easy pastas and very fresh salads. We ordered a starter of Crostini with Goat Cheese and Fig, and for dinner shared a Papparadelle with a Rabbit White Ragu sauce and a yummy Grilled Vegetable and Smoked Cheese Salad. To top it off for dessert, we had the most decadent Dark Chocolate Cake with a small glass of a dessert wine called Aleatico.

Crostini

Grilled veggie Salad topped with Smoked Cheese and Arugula

Papardelle

If Heaven was in Chocolate Form

Yummy sweet wine, Aleatico

 We left fully satisfied and as we walked home past the Duomo, it was hard not to be so appreciative of where I was. Such a beautiful city with amazing food with one of my best friends Lexi.

OK, so I DO need two posts on Florence. The best and most fun meal we had there is deserving of a single post. So look out for that soon!!

Amore Roma

Train rides have become my most precious moments to write down thoughts from the days prior. I have left Rome and now sit on a train, saddened to be leaving such a fantastic interesting city now filled with wonderful memories. But I am excited for all things that lie ahead-in life and in our next city Florence where this train ride is taking me.

I have always been intrigued by history of any kind. To me, traveling is the best way to see history first hand-to walk in the shoes of others before you and see how they lived. In California, it is hard to do this, as our history just doesn’t reach the depths as it does in say, Rome. Sure we have some interesting Native American sites, but they have the Coliseum and the Pantheon. Structures like that blow my mind away with their construction, their power and especially their preservation.

I think beautiful is an understatement. But that how a lot of this city was. And luckily for us, there was plenty of beautiful meals that were shared. I did not document them all-partially to not drive my fellow travelers crazy by forcing them to wait to eat until after I took a picture, and partially because most of the time I was far too hungry myself to wait. The food was just so dang good it was impossible not to chow down as soon as it hit the table in front of you. Some notable meals-

Dinner at Casa Coppelle

Situated on the Northeast side of Plaza Navona was this charming restaurant. There are back rooms with bookshelves and bouquets as it is a ‘casa’ or house theme, but we chose a seat near the bar.

Front of restaurant

Dinner started with a basket of their homemade bread (regular and focaccia) and a lovely bottle of wine, from a winery called Leone de  Castro. I have still yet to figure out how Italian wines are labeled and was almost getting familiar with the wines in the general Southern section of France (don’t even get me confused with the different wines of the North) so Italian wines are just lost on me. All I know is that they are good.

For dinner, we had a Risotto made with Prosecco and thyme, an in house-made pasta with tomato, olives, basil and a veal dish with a wine sauce. I wish I could be more specific then that! I was so intent on eating that I didn’t write down anything and just indulged. But I can tell you, it was GOOD.

Pasta!

Risotto

Veal

Compliments to the chefs!

We decided to head out for dessert to one of the many fabulous gelato stands that seem to be on every corner. We did not have to walk to long before we found a bustling shop, with flavors for days. We each got a cup with three scoops and blissfully ate walking through the freshly rained on streets.

Black Passion (raspberry dark chocolate) champagne and raspberry

 
Our night ended with a trip to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps, both overly crowded during the day, but unbelievably beautiful at night. 

Lunch at Piazza Saint Pietro

Lex and I decided we wanted to make a lunch one day so went to a small market near St. Peters. We ogled at the fresh fruits and veggies and bought a few peaches and plums. For lunch, we stopped at a lovely stand with the cutest old man working and bought some fresh bread, some Cacio Roman cheese, breaded eggplant and an amazing pesto. We also grabbed the smallest bottle of wine (250 ml) to sip while consuming our soon to be feast

We gathered our goods, stopped at a Pastry shop to grab some sweets and headed to church.

With our sandwiches assembled and wine carefully unscrewed with enjoyed a fabulous lunch people watching and pigeon avoiding.

Other notable food adventures included a Salmon and Spinach Risotto, an Orchiette with Broccoli, some fried octopus, and of course some pizza from our couchsurfing host’s favorite place. We ended our time in Rome with a fabulous meal in Trasteverewith gnocchi.

Looking forward as we are just coming into the station in Florence I one thing-hungry. We left on an early train and did not have time to stop for breakfast so we have just sustained ourselves on some leftover nuts and the peaches we bought. So first things first is some lunch, I’ll try to take some pictures and post :)

Italy begins!

I wrote this post now three days ago but had camera issues and couldn't post it! Sorry for the delay! And look for a Rome post (having the most FABULOUS time here) in the next few days!

The Italian journey has begun. And what a fun journey it has been so far. I write this on the train from Naples to Rome, ready to begin am exciting Roman adventure. With Vesuvius as my backdrop, let me introduce you to my culinary escapades thus far.

I arrived in Rome on Thursday, anxious to start a new trip and very excited to see one of my best friends, who was arriving just a few hours after I. After checking into the hostel, I set out just to explore the city, but only after a full stomach was achieved. I finally settled on a little wine bar on a busy street. It had people (Italian people) eating outside, so I figured it must be good or at least better then tourist food on the piazzas. A quick glance at the menu and it was decided-Pizza Romana. It arrived quickly and exceeded my expectations. I may have been so hungry that anything would have tasted good. Nothing like an Italian pizza in Rome.

View from my seat

Pizza Romana-Olives, capers, anchovies, oregano, mozzarella, and sauce

After lunch, I went for a walk around the city. Well, more like trek. I somehow accidentally stumbled upon many of the major monuments-what’s that large arched building over there? Oh the Colosseum. The sound of running water? The Trevi Fountain. And what are those people sitting on? Spanish Steps, duh. 

What an awesome way to explore the city.  Lex was arriving soon, so I headed back to the hostel to meet her. So impressed with my navigation skills, that when she arrived I boldly stated I could get us back to the Spanish Steps where we could find some dinner. We didn’t find the steps, or really many places for dinner. Finally settled on a café, ordered some okay pasta and went home to start our journey to Naples the next morning.

Our destination in Naples was a suburb called Portici. We are couchsurfing much of this journey and our host lived there-just to the right of the main cathedral in town. Down a long hill with luggage in tow, we arrived at his house, ready for some food. We dropped off our things and he invited us for dinner, but in three hours. So we hit the pavement and found a little snack of foccacia bread and some sort of vegetable in between. Freshly baked, it was greasy good and held us until our host and his brother cooked us a fantastic pasta meal.

In the pan is the sausage browned. The mug holds the soaked mushrooms

wine glass for dinner

The pasta was a cream sausage and mushroom sauce. He separated the sausage cooked it a little and added dried porcini mushrooms that had been soaked. For the rest of the sauce he added what was like a porcini cream (cream of mushroom) and a normal cream out of little boxes. Simple but very effective.  Served with a Sicilian wine Lex and I had bought at the local wine store across the street, we all ate in silence, except for the occasional “Mmmmm.”

The next morning we went out to Pompeii, and as Vesuvius was looming on right and the Mediterranean Sea on our left, I felt so lucky to be where I was. Unless of course, Vesuvius decided to shower the area with ashes as it did nearly 2000 ago. Pompeii is a fascinating site and one could spend hours wandering around this ancient city. Some of my favorite spots were the House of the Baker, one of 35 bakeries but one of the largest in Pompeii, and the Thermopolium a ancient ‘snack bar’ that served hot food and drinks, specifically around lunchtime. 

Grinding Stones in the Bakery

The Thermopolium

Pompeii was too big for us to see it all, well, impossible to see it all before our stomachs got the best of us, so we decided to leave and head to nearby tourist destination Sorrento.  Also, being by the sea, should mean the seafood would be superb. We walked till we found what we were looking for-a small restaurant, with people eating delicious smelling food.  We ordered a shrimp salad and a Risotto a la Pescatore and eagerly waited for our food. Seeing it served in front of us was like Christmas come early, especially with the Christmas ornament store across the street.

Shrimp, mussels, clams, octopus, squid YUM

Rocket with granna cheese, cherry tomatoes, and shrimp.

We only spent two nights in the area, but needed to find some Napoli pizza before we could leave. Pizza was created in Naples so they know how to do it just right. While waiting for our train to take us back to Rome, we hit the town in search for the perfect slice. Unfortunately, one of the oldest restaurants was closed on Sundays, but we stumbled upon a fabulous street market (with LOADS of fresh fish) and discovered a little stand with pizza for 1 Euro. Normally customers eat on the street but to give our aching feet and backs a break, we stumbled into the small seating area with our pizza and Caprese sandwich in hand.  The pizza was unbelievably good-so simple but made with care in their wood oven in the back.

Pizza Oven

The back of the booth to buy

We left fully satisfied and slightly rested to make the trip back to the station. But not after we stopped to pick up some foodstuffs to make the three hour journey back to Rome more enjoyable. Some bread, tomatoes and cheese with a handful of apples and a couple desserts and we were ready to go

Cheese lady who cut our bread for us even though we had bought it at another store

Pastries

I finish this post in the middle of a tunnel on a train heading to Rome. Excited for the culinary treasures I am about to discover and the ancient treasures that have been discovered long before me.

Au Revoir

Au Revoir, means goodbye in French and that is what I'm doing, saying goodbye to France. It seems like just yesterday that I was on a plane over here, not knowing what to expect, and not knowing just how I was going to fill two months of my life here. But, I think one could spend a lifetime easily is this quaint little nook of Southwest France. I went today on a final bike ride to Castelnaud-crisp air, turning trees, a babbling brook, and a giant castle in the distance-you can't just find this anywhere. I was reminded of all the special moments that I have had here in this valley. From cooking to cleaning, discovery of new foods to a new appreciation of the old, to making countless new friends and unbelievable memories, it has truly been an amazing experience. Below, some of my most memorable moments here in the valley, some featured on the blog and some not but all important to my experience and my time here

My home, the B&B

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Albert & I at the first night market I went to of the year in Saint Cyprien

Wildflowers

Salade de Perigord-Duck Confit, terrine, gizzards-the best!

wine!

Learning about Foie Gras

Cenac Rugby Bodega

Foie Gras plate at Cabanoix

Fresh bread at a night market in Audrix

Daglan Faire

The Dordogne Valley

Medieval Kitchens

Dinner with a view

Castelnaud and kayaking :)

Wine tasting in Montbazillac

22nd birthday

The ruins of Chateau de Commarque

Making your meal at night market in Bouzic

Bouzic Firework Show

Lessons from Daniele

Learning more from her

Making pommes sarladaise and magret in Daniele's kitchen

Sarlat Market

So many vendors!

DUCK lasagna=YUMMY

St John Bread & Wine in London

Borough Market in London

Night at the Proms fireworks in London

Castelnaud Tete du Veau lunch

Tete du Veau with a large brass band

Walnut Mill

In the Kitchen, eating the lamb meal I made

What you see here is only a small explanation on my life for the past two months. Thank you Caitlin & Albert for the best time in the Dordogne. Now I'm off to Italy to start a new adventure with one of my best friends :)