Saturday, August 28, 2010

Like a Local

As my third full in week France, I am starting to fell more and more like a local everyday, minus the speaking the language issue as my French is an utter disaster. But, I am learning the land, knowing my way around, venturing off by myself, and even getting the names of the Chateau's straight as we drive (or kayak) by. Even when we venture to the markets and brocantes I know people by names and can say bonjour!

Earlier this week, I biked to a nearby town Beynac, known for the giant chateau on the cliffs over the town,  its quaint charming streets featured in films such as Chocolat, and its prestige as being labeled "es plus  beaux villages de France"  (one of the most beautiful villages in France).  This trip to Beynac was to tour the beautiful, though dominating chateau.

The chateau was built in the 12th century and has had several additions added to it since. It is a real treat to tour and anyone in the area should head up there. The restoration process that began in the 1960s has done a great job keeping the integrity of this historical landmark. My favorite original idea? A kitchen with a moat entrance!! Would definitely keep people out of the kitchen until dinner was served!



But after a bike ride there and back, a climb up the hill to the chateau, and a tour around the castle, I was ready for dinner. Luckily we were heading to another friends house in Saint Cyprien for a delightful meal.

Dinner with a View

Dinner Party!

It was a fully vegetarian meal, but you would never guess it. The hosts, who were Australian used Asian spices and sauces to create a lovely meal, full of fresh vegetables from the markets, rice seasoned with whole coriander pods, tofu, and a lovely homemade crisp with local berries, yum!
First Course-Kebabs of Fresh Veggies and Tofu with a Honey and Soy Sauce Glaze
Second Course-Green Curry with the Coriander Rice and Green Beans with Sesame Seed

Dinner was delicious and the sunset over the valley really reminded me how wonderful this area truly is.
Romantic, non?
After such an enjoyable and filling meal, it only seemed appropriate that we go kayaking the next morning. Greeted by a cool river breeze and the blazing summer sun, we set off at 10 in the morning for a leisurely paddle down the Dordogne. The river runs through some of the most beautiful villages I have ever seen, and its amazing that they are all right in my own backyard.
La Roque Gageac
Castelnaud
Beynac
If that doesn't convinced anyone to come here, I don't know what will. If you like, I can be your own personal river guide...

Queen of the Dordogne

While floating down the river, I made friends with some British boys and girl.  I joined them after for a few drinks and was invited to their wine tasting trip to Bergerac the next day.We visited Chateau Monbazillac, a chateau built in the 16th century that is surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills, and known for its very sweet white wines. The vineyard is much like a  Napa or Sonoma Valley vineyard with tasting rooms and a staff, not like most around here where the farmer himself comes out of the field to pour your taste. But they do a superb job in not only promoting their own wines, but the other wines and products of the Bergerac and Perigord area.


Chateau Monbazillac
New Friends to taste wines with
The Montbazillac AOC is about 5,000 acres of vineyards, that consist of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle vines that have been affected by the noble rot. Its higher percentage of Muscadelle, with over 10% of it in the blend, lends it to be sweeter then the Sauternes wine from the Bordeaux region. The Montbazillac label is so specific that not only do the grapes have to be picked by hand, any dry wine that might be produced in the same vineyard must be labeled under the Bergerac AOC instead. And for those wondering what AOC is, it means Appellation d’origine contrôlée, which translates as "controlled designation of origin", that the French certification labelling process to ensure you are getting what you think you are getting. Not only limited to wines, as there are AOC labels for cheese and honey etc, it ensures that proper techniques in the cultivation of the product are used.


Clear Bottle White Wine means sweet, like this Monbazillac. Dry white wines come in green bottles


All in all a fabulous week, and with my birthday just looming just days ahead, I'm sure there is plenty more fun to come!

Cheers!

2 comments:

  1. Wow! This is really turning into the trip of a lifetime! I am green with envy as I sit at my desk this chilly Moday morning. Can't wait o hear more!

    ReplyDelete
  2. ok, I'm ready to go! Marissa is ready to sign
    up and work next summer!! This is like our own personal travel program - love it! Annette

    ReplyDelete