Ice, Ice Baby

I could not pass up such a perfect title for this post, since it only seems appropriate after you spend a day climbing on an 11 km long piece of ice, also known as the Franz Josef Glacier. Driving into town, I would have never thought there would be a glacier there. the land is tropical, lush, and considered a rainforest. I got off the bus expecting mist and cold, and was greeted with an awkward humid rain. The scenery however is breathtakingly beautiful. The Franz Josef glacier is one of three glaciers located in a rainforest setting. The other two are nearby Fox glacier, and one in Patagonia.

I took a full day guided trip, since to get remotely close to the ice and just even the terminal face of the glacier, you have to be with an experienced guide. We got suited up with overtrousers, raincoats, boots, thick socks, and the most important cramp-ons and took the short ride to the river bed to get up to the glacier. After a short trek through the rainforest canopy, we arrived in the river bed, faced with a giant hunk of ice.



The guides asked us how far we believed we were from the glacier. Guesses ranged, but no one guessed how far-2.2 km, basically a mile away. The ice is so deceiving in not only it's size, but it's distance. It looked as it was a least half as close as it was. The walk along the river bed was just the first test in the day-see how to not roll your ankle on the rolling pebbles below your feet.




The second test was making your way up a what looks like a giant mountain of rocks, but what really is a piece of what they call "dead ice". Dead ice is ice that has become detached from the glacier, becoming it's own entity. Our guide explained that this was almost detached, but had become the safest way up the mountain after a piece had fallen out into the river before, making the previous path unusable.







When we reached the end of the dead ice, we were instructed on how to use our cramp-ons.



These spikes are a life-saver, and without them, maneuvering on the ice would be next to impossible, as I unfortunately learned when one of mine broke just as we were making an ascent up. A quick fix with a replacement piece from the guide and I was on my way again, but it was potentially the most unnerving event of the day. Climbing on the glacier is such an experience. In a group of about 10, we made our way around the towering pieces of ice. Our guide picked away to make steps along the way, as we patiently waited just taking in the view.




The steps











The ice in winter months gets this awesome blue color, which really stood out under the misty grey sky.





Constantly throughout the day, I was preciously reminded that in the end, the ice controls life while you're on it. Even though chilly in the days persistent drizzle, it was challenging and rewarding, down to every last drop.

The Southside

I have been on the South Island for less than 24 hours and have already had some fascinating and interesting experiences. It started with my journey from North to South Island on the Interislander ferry. A monstrosity of a vessel, to take passengers, cars, and large trucks across the Cook Straight to the South










The morning greeted me with a beautiful sunrise












It's amazing how sunrises can warm up a person's soul. Most of the time, I only witness sunsets-for the convenience of time, as I am not an early morning riser, and for the sheer fact that I live in sunny California, where the sun sets on one of it's final places of the day. But a sunrise is different from a sunset other then just time of day. It signifies a fresh start, and the breath of a new day.

The three hour journey from North to South Island is just as pretty as the islands themselves. The water is so blue, and the air is crisp and clean, though it was overcast most of the way over. As one makes their way into the South Island, through the Tory Channel and Queen Charlotte Sound, you are greeted by effortlessly beautiful islands, with water so crystal clear.




The sounds jetting out into the water


And a cute little town welcoming your arrival



I spent the night in Nelson, which was about two hours bus from the Picton Ferry Terminal. Nelson is a relatively small town, but home to a very active shipping port for the South Island.



In my short time there, I went on a walk and met a 79 year old man, who started to chat with me as we made our way to the Tahunanui Beach.


He made me slow down, and actually enjoy the scenery, explaining to me how he walks the beach every day he possibly can. He told me stories about life and things, and asked me interesting questions, many people never would think of asking. He even produced a personality type quiz that he has been working on for a book, and asked me to take it to evaluate myself-that the true me was within my thoughts. As he shook my hand and said it was nice to meet me and sent me on my way, I felt as I was some student who had been taught by a great professor, and was now ready for the world. I left him sitting on the beach, but couldn't help but turn around to snap a photo of him sitting there on his towel, with his papers and quizzes, waiting for the next person to cross his path. -see far left bottom corner-



And luckily for me, New Zealand also has some fabulous sunsets, seemingly perfect to end the day.

Windy Wellington

Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, the last place on the North Island, and the first place to make me miss home. The whole way down to Wellington, people had been telling me it's like San Francisco. And they were right. From the style of some houses


To the sprawling, yet contained city



To the oceanfront piers






To lastly, the very large hills





One thing Wellington did not live up to was it's windy weather! It was a gorgeous two days there, especially if you have your own personal tour guide. I was staying with my friend Sam,



Who happened to be graduating the day I arrived, why he is wearing a goofy hood in the photo ;)

Sam was gracious enough to lead me around the city for a day. To the top of Mount Vic





Up to the "Beehive", where Parliament works









And to a comedy show of Dai Henwood, in a club most appropriately named, the San Francisco Bathhouse.

After such a busy day, we decided to eat in, and made our own personal pizzas, full of mushrooms, orange capsicums(aka bell pepper), ham, tomatoes, and onions. Delish!






We ended our day and our meal with a lovely, hand picked selection of the infamous New Zealand "lollies", or in my definition, bin candy.



A sweet way to end my time in the North Island. Thanks Sam!

It's getting hot in here...

Not that I am going with a song theme here, but it seemed only appropriate after visiting a very active thermal spring area these last few days. As we know, New Zealand is home to many natural beauties. From the aforementioned waterfalls, to beaches, to mountains, to glaciers, it's really got it all. I have been in the Bay of Plenty area, home to many natural warm water springs, bubbling mud pools and roaring geysers-getting hot hot hot

My first stop was in Rotorua, a popular Maori city, home to an infamous sulphur smell from the thermal activity below.

Lake Rotorua


Just walking around town, you smell the sulphur and see pipes from the ground, safely releasing the gases below. Here and there, you also run into hot water ponds, with steam rising rapidly in the crisp autumn air.


I took the opportunity and visited Te Puia, a very active thermal site just outside of downtown Rotorua. It is home to bubbling mud baths 40,000 years old


Three active geysers


Landscapes that made me feel more like on the moon then here on Earth,


And a fun traditional Maori show, celebrating their heritage, their traditions, and way of life.


The guide at Te Puia was born and raised in the area, and lives in the same place as her grandparents and their relative before them



She was such a kind person, and told her stories of playing in these springs as a kid, evading security guards so they could get to the best spot. She explained on how they cook their meals even still, over the steamy areas in her backyard. Now she has to be the security guard she said, as kids come over and try to steal her cooking out of the pot above the boiling earth below. Though I don't think anything would protect her dinner if this happened...


I was sad to only spend a short time there, but I had to move a little more south to Lake Taupo.


Though my main mission in this area was unattainable and spoiled by unfortunate weather, I was able to spend some quality time in the natural thermal spa just minutes outside of downtown Taupo.


The water rushes furiously out of the hillside, and has created lovely baths for many to enjoy.


The spring leads into the Waikato River, and though this picture, taken from the warm protective spa waters, doesn't quite show it, the river was fabulously clear, blue, and swift.


So swift in fact that just a few kilometers down the road, you find this narrow section of river, full of roaring water, called Huka Falls.





If you look to the middle right of the photo, you can see the fence on the cliff, and then gauge how big these falls actually were.



The falls landed in this crystal clear pool and the river, though still very strong from the rains, seemed calm and peaceful again. Simply amazing.